It’s getting increasingly hard to find truly beautiful places in the world that remain untouched by tourism. They’re either impossibly remote or so overdeveloped that hotels line the beaches. The joy of exploring the area around Nosy Be in Madagascar is that it’s both accessible and still undeveloped. You can leave London in the evening (via Addis) or fly from Cape Town in the morning (via Joburg) and, in both cases, arrive in time for an afternoon snorkel.

Our two families –  four adults and six kids aged between 10 and 15 — have been teaming up for an African adventure every other year since 2021. We’re both active families, so the brief is always to squeeze in as much adventure and exploration as possible – hiking, snorkeling, kayaking, wildlife encounters and boat trips  – with enough downtime for beach swims, sunbathing (especially for the 13-year-old girls), hammock reading, and card games… and minimal screens!

Getting under the skin of Madagascar

We began our adventure in the tiny fishing village of Doany, just a 30-minute speedboat ride from Nosy Be. There, Max, our host, originally from France but fluent in Malagasy and deeply respected by the local community, has built a beautiful lodge (Shambala) right on the beach, with the best sunsets I’ve ever experienced. He welcomes families seeking a truly Malagasy experience and who are up for both land and sea adventures — perfect for active families. We spent five nights at Shambala, sailing Hobie Cats, snorkeling off the reef in front of the lodge, hiking through primary forest and remote mountain villages, breathing in the scents of vanilla, ylang ylang, cacao, and coffee as we went.

A highlight was a day spent on Nosy Mamoko, a sacred island of the Sakalava people, where the ‘Queen’ still resides. We travelled there with the Queen’s daughter-in-law, who stopped passing fishermen during our boat ride to buy fresh fish, which she later cooked for our lunch outside her hut. Along the way, we spotted frigate birds soaring overhead, humpback dolphins playing beside our boat, black lemurs in the trees, and even an Aldabra giant tortoise.

Island hopping on a crewed catamaran

After four days on land, we boarded a catamaran with a captain, cook, and deckhand, and spent six unforgettable days sailing between remote islands. We snorkelled the reefs of Nosy Ankazoberavina — Madagascar’s first marine reserve — swam with turtles off Nosy Iranja, and anchored in sheltered inlets dotted with tiny fishing villages, falling asleep each night to the gentle sound of water lapping against the hull.

Life on the boat had a magical way of slowing everything down. With no Wi-Fi and no distractions, we found ourselves settling into a peaceful rhythm of eating, reading, playing cards, fishing, snorkelling, and soaking up the pristine surroundings. With two keen sailors on board (the dads), we ventured as far as the Radama Islands, where a small resort offered a welcome touch of comfort after several off-grid days.

Nosy Komba

We ended our journey on Nosy Komba, a lush volcanic island just south of Nosy Be. We stayed next door to Time + Tide’s Tsara Komba Lodge, at a group/family-friendly option called Komba Forever. With four cabins sleeping up to 16 people, it’s perfect for a family or group of families to take over completely. We spent three blissful days on the beach, kayaking and hiking in the Lokobe Reserve — a primary forest where the highlight was spotting a green viper.

Friends who had been to Madagascar warned us about the poverty. The poverty is visible in the simple homes, modest infrastructure, and limited access to resources that many locals face daily. Yet despite these challenges, there is a strong sense of community, warmth, and resilience. Life here revolves around fishing, small-scale farming, and traditional crafts, with families living close to nature and relying heavily on one another. You can sense the genuine hospitality and pride in local culture, even in the face of economic hardship. We were also amazed by how clean the beaches and sea were — almost entirely free of litter.

Thinking of going? Here’s what to know

If you’re thinking of taking your family to Madagascar, I’d recommend flying to Nosy Be and basing yourself in that region. Madagascar’s most iconic highlights – like the Avenue of the Baobabs in the west, the rainforest of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (home to the famous indri indri lemur) near Antananarivo, or the otherworldly Tsingy de Bemaraha, are scattered across the country, often requiring long drives or unreliable internal flights to reach. Unless you’re visiting specifically to tick off every lemur species and rare reptile, Nosy Be offers the perfect balance of adventure and ease for families. You’ll still see lemurs, chameleons, and even giant tortoises on land, while the surrounding marine parks boast some of the best snorkelling and diving in the country. Plus, with good accommodation options and no need for domestic flights, you’ll spend less time in airports and more time soaking up the magic of Madagascar.

For those adventurous families with a generous budget, Masoala Forest Lodge is tucked away in a remote corner of the Masoala Peninsula in the North East of the country. It is only accessible by charter flight from Antananarivo followed by a boat journey or helicopter transfer, but the reward is immense: rainforest spilling into the sea, beautiful lagoons, rare wildlife (including the red-ruffed lemur), and a truly immersive, off-grid experience in one of Madagascar’s most pristine environments. Further North and accessed by helicopter from Nosy Be airport, Miavana by Time + Tide is the height of barefoot luxury – a private island with palatial villas, white-sand beaches, world-class diving, and lots of watersports. If you’re after something truly special, these properties are worth the splurge – and you’ll arrive in style – private charters and helicopters are the only way in.

If you’re looking for a resort-style holiday in the Indian Ocean, complete with kids’ clubs and all the usual amenities, then Mauritius, the Maldives or the Seychelles is a great choice. But if you’re after something more adventurous, a destination that feels truly untouched, rich in culture, incredible marine life and home to wildlife found nowhere else on Earth — Madagascar offers a rare and unforgettable family experience. But hurry, before the rest of the world catches on.

Best time to go May – October.

Family highlights

• Snorkeling over pristine reefs with tropical fish and turtles

• Warm water (especially if you live in Cape Town!)

• Delicious pancakes every morning

• Seeing lemurs and giant tortoises

• Sleeping out on the deck of the catamaran under the stars

View Instagram reel of the trip

If you’re dreaming of your own Madagascan adventure and want help planning the right itinerary for your family, get in touch — I’d love to help you craft an unforgettable trip.